Causes and Solutions
For standard fabrics, consistent width makes garment cutting and production easier.
For stretch velvet all-over sequin fabric, however, some width variation is a natural part of the production process.
For example, Naying Textile’s NEW-J03570 All-Over Sequin Fabric Based on Velvet has a nominal cuttable width of 124CM. Based on the current production process and quality requirements, an actual bulk-production width of 110–125CM can be considered a reasonable usable width range.
1. Why Does the Width Vary?
NEW-J03570 uses a 95% Polyester / 5% Spandex velvet base.
The 5% Spandex provides the stretch and wearing comfort required for fashion garments. It also means that the base fabric can recover after being exposed to mechanical tension during production.
For this particular fabric, however, the most direct factor affecting the final usable width is the tension of the embroidery bobbin thread.
The all-over sequins are fixed onto the velvet base by computer embroidery. Bobbin thread tension affects how the elastic base fabric is held during embroidery and how much it recovers after coming off the machine.
Other production stages can also affect the final dimensions, including:
- Pre-setting of the velvet base
- Embroidery
- Relaxation after embroidery
- Final finishing
Therefore, the final usable width is the result of the complete production process, not simply the original width of the base fabric.
2. Two Types of Width Variation
Variation between different machines
If different embroidery machines use noticeably different bobbin thread settings, the same fabric can have different usable widths.
This is a production process control issue.
It can be reduced through standardized embroidery settings, consistent bobbin thread adjustment, machine-to-machine comparison and process QC.
Normal variation within the same machine
A different situation occurs when small bobbin thread adjustments are made within the normal operating range of the same machine.
This variation has a certain degree of randomness, but it is not necessarily a defect.
For all-over sequin fabric, the balance between bobbin thread tension, fabric recovery and sequin fixing helps create the desired full and three-dimensional appearance.
Trying to make the width absolutely identical by over-controlling the embroidery process may reduce the three-dimensional effect.
Therefore, the practical goal is not Zero Width Variation, but Controlled Width Variation.
3. How Can Width Stability Be Improved?
Reasonable width variation is part of the product characteristics, but excessive or unpredictable variation should still be controlled.
Stabilize the velvet base before embroidery
Appropriate pre-setting and pre-shrinkage can help make the velvet base more dimensionally stable before embroidery.
The purpose is not to reduce the fabric’s stretch, but to improve dimensional stability while maintaining the required 5% Spandex.
Standardize production between machines
When several machines are used for the same product, key factors should be controlled consistently, especially:
Bobbin Thread Tension, Embroidery Settings and Machine Condition.
Pre-production testing can help confirm that different machines produce similar results.
Optimize relaxation and final finishing
After embroidery, the fabric should be given sufficient relaxation time before final width inspection.
During finishing, temperature, machine speed, overfeed and finishing width should also be controlled.
The aim is to reduce abnormal variation while maintaining the required stretch and three-dimensional sequin appearance.
4. What Does This Mean for Buyers?
For Stretch Velvet + All-Over Sequin fabric, buyers should not focus only on one fixed nominal width during development and purchasing.
Before bulk production, it is useful to confirm:
- Nominal Cuttable Width
- Expected Usable Width Range
- Width Measurement Method
- Bulk Production Tolerance
For NEW-J03570, the current reference is:
Nominal Cuttable Width: 124CM Expected Usable Width: 110–125CM
Garment manufacturers should also plan cutting according to the actual delivered width rather than relying only on the development sample.
This helps improve fabric consumption calculations and reduce cutting risks.
5. NEW-J03570 Product Information
Item: NEW-J03570 Name: All-Over Sequin Fabric Based on Velvet Comp Face: 100% Polyester Comp Ground: 95% Polyester, 5% Spandex Nominal Cuttable Width: 124CM Weight: 510G/M
NEW-J03570 combines a stretch velvet base, dense all-over sequins and a rich three-dimensional sequin effect.
For this type of fabric, some width variation is part of its production characteristics. The important distinction is between uncontrolled process variation and controlled variation within an agreed range.
Naying Textile focuses on balancing usable width, stretch, fabric hand and three-dimensional sequin appearance, so the fabric can perform reliably in actual garment production.
